Colour is the most-asked question before every job — and the good news is that with epoxy it is a pure design decision: every colour costs the same. Here is how to choose well, surface by surface, plus the two rules that keep the result looking intentional.
Matching (grout close to the tile colour) makes joints disappear — the floor reads as one continuous surface. It is the safe, seamless choice for big floors. Contrast (grout deliberately darker or lighter than the tile) turns the grid into a design element — strongest on small-format tile, where the grid dominates anyway.
| Surface | Recommended play | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Large light floors (600×600) | Match — light grey / warm white | Joints vanish, space feels bigger |
| Dark floors | Match — charcoal / espresso | Pure white lines on dark tile look like a grid you didn't order |
| Bathroom floors | Mid-grey, bronze, champagne | Stays clean-looking longest in daily wet use |
| Kit-kat / subway feature walls | Contrast — charcoal on light, champagne on dark | The grid IS the design — lean into it |
| Kitchen backsplash | Either — match for calm, contrast for trend | Epoxy wipes clean whichever you pick |
"Will white epoxy grout turn yellow or black like my old grout?" Cement grout darkens because it is porous — it absorbs water, soap and oils. Epoxy is non-porous; nothing soaks in, so the colour you choose is the colour you keep. That is what the 5-year written warranty covers, discolouration included.
"Is a dark colour more expensive?" No. Every colour — white, charcoal, champagne gold, anything on the chart — is the same price. Mixing three colours across the flat costs the same as one.
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