Every rate, published
Most quotes in this trade are one number with no working shown — which is why they move once the crew is already in your house. Ours is three constants and one table. Check our arithmetic.
The price list
| Tile (mm) | Joint per m² | Old-grout rate per m² |
|---|---|---|
| 1200 × 600 | 2.50 m | $28.35 |
| 800 × 800 | 2.50 m | $28.35 |
| 600 × 600 | 3.33 m | $37.80 |
| 600 × 300 | 5.00 m | $56.70 |
| 300 × 300 — the HDB standard | 6.67 m | $75.60 |
| 300 × 100 | 13.33 m | $151.20 |
| 150 × 50 kit-kat | 26.67 m | $302.40 |
Two toilets, both 5 m². One in 300×300 holds 33 metres of joint. One in 1200×600 holds 12.5. Same floor, 2.7× the work. Any quote given before someone asks your tile size is a guess.
The van, the setup, the masking and the wash-up happen once whether we do one toilet or a whole flat. Spread over more area, fixed cost per square foot falls. That is the entire reason the packages are cheaper per room — not a promotion, just arithmetic.
Two or more units in the same block, works within the same fortnight: 2 units get 5% off each, 3 or more get 8% off each — on the tariff or any package. One trip, shared setup, no idle days: the saving is real, so it is passed on. Best single discount applies.
The calculator on the homepage runs this exact tariff — the number it shows is the number we honour. No form to fill in first.
These are the same formula expressed per square foot of surface, so you can sanity-check any quote, ours included. They cover the surface and joint work only. Three things are added on top of the grid, exactly as the rules above state: $4 per metre of floor perimeter, the $380 minimum job, and the $150 mobilisation when the work value is under $900. On small jobs those dominate, which is why a single toilet floor never costs what the grid alone suggests.
| Tile (mm) | Never grouted floor / wall |
Recent grout floor / wall |
Old cement floor / wall |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1200 × 600 · 800 × 800 | $2.10 / $2.45 | $2.91 / $3.50 | $3.56 / $4.35 |
| 600 × 600 | $2.49 / $2.96 | $3.56 / $4.35 | $4.44 / $5.49 |
| 1200 × 300 | $2.88 / $3.46 | $4.22 / $5.21 | $5.32 / $6.63 |
| 600 × 300 | $3.27 / $3.97 | $4.88 / $6.07 | $6.20 / $7.78 |
| 300 × 300 — the HDB standard | $4.05 / $4.99 | $6.20 / $7.78 | $7.95 / $10.06 |
| 300 × 100 | $7.17 / $9.04 | $11.47 / $14.63 | $14.98 / $19.19 |
Kit-kat, mosaic and anything smaller than 300 × 100 are quoted from the same formula — the joint density just keeps climbing, so message us with the tile size rather than guessing. For comparison shopping: the market's headline range is roughly $6 to $15 per square foot, and rates advertised below about $3 for removal work cannot be raking out old grout to depth at any realistic labour cost. Ask what is being skipped.
Removal
Taking out soft new grout and taking out cured epoxy are not the same job — one crumbles, the other has to be ground out. Here is the whole schedule, including the cases most people can't tell apart by looking.
| What's in the joint | Floor $/m | Wall $/m | vs old cement |
|---|---|---|---|
| Never grouted — new tiles | $5.04 | $6.55 | −56% |
| Recent grout, under about a year (BTO) | $8.51 | $11.06 | −25% |
| Old cement grout — the usual case | $11.34 | $14.74 | — |
| Polymer-modified cement | $12.91 | $16.79 | +14% |
| Pre-mixed urethane or polyurea | $13.86 | $18.02 | +22% |
| Epoxy emulsion | $15.12 | $19.66 | +33% |
| True epoxy — someone already did this | $18.90 | $24.57 | +67% |
| Furan resin — industrial, rare in homes | $20.79 | $27.03 | +83% |
Almost nobody can tell polymer-modified cement from ordinary cement by looking, and you shouldn't have to. We ask what you can actually answer — never grouted, recent, old, or someone already epoxied it. We identify the rest.
Your quote is firm for the condition you described. If what we find on site is harder to remove, the new rate is the one in this table — not a number we invent on the day. And we tell you before we start, not after.
Epoxy bonds to the tile edge, so removing it can chip tiles and turn a grouting job into a tiling job. We treat any figure as an estimate and confirm on site. Anyone quoting this firm from a photo hasn't thought about it.
Close-up of a joint in good light, on WhatsApp. We'll tell you what it looks like and which rate applies. No charge, no obligation — it costs us a minute and saves you a surprise.
Comparing quotes
You should get other quotes — we mean that. But a grouting job is invisible the day it finishes and only shows what it is worth two years later, so comparing the numbers alone tells you almost nothing. These three questions do. We answer all of them in writing, before you pay anything.
One
Ours: Mapei Kerapoxy, Ardex or Sika — two-part, mixed on site against a clock. Brand, colour and batch number go on your certificate with the supplier receipt.
Watch for: just the word "epoxy". If it arrives ready-mixed in a tub — including Mapei Flexcolor CQ, often confused with Kerapoxy CQ — it is not an epoxy. Different material, different price.
Two
Ours: at least two-thirds of the joint depth, photographed open before anything goes back in. You get those photos whether or not you ask.
Watch for: no answer, or a skim over the top. New grout keyed into old cement instead of the tile edge comes away in sheets in about a year — and you cannot see it once the job is finished.
Three
Ours: fixed in writing before we start, from the tariff above. Five years, written, any job size.
Watch for: two years — the trade standard, and just short of the 12 to 36 months where bad workmanship actually surfaces. Also site fees and minimum charges that appear after the crew is already in your house.
If a cheaper quote answers all three the same way, take it. That is a genuinely better price for the same work, and we would rather you had it than had a bad job from us at any price.
The real comparison
Sticker price is the wrong comparison for anything you have to buy again. The honest measure is cost per year of service — what each option actually costs to keep a bathroom in usable condition.
| What you do | You pay | Lasts | Cost per year |
|---|---|---|---|
| Nothing — scrub it every month | $0 | — | Your Saturdays, then a leak |
| Re-do the cement grout when it goes | $300 | ~3 yrs | $110 |
| Epoxy grout, once | $488 | 15 yrs | $47 |
| Hack out and re-tile | $3,500 | 20 yrs | $281 |
Cost per year is the equivalent annual cost at a 5% discount rate — the standard way to compare purchases with different lifespans. Epoxy is the most expensive option on the day and the cheapest one by more than double over its life.
Cement grout is porous. It drinks water, and mould grows inside it where no amount of scrubbing reaches. Epoxy has effectively zero water absorption — there is nothing for mould to live in, so it stays the colour you chose.
Open joints let water past the tile into the screed. While it's cosmetic, it's a few hundred dollars. Once it reaches the waterproofing membrane it becomes a hacking job — tiles out, membrane re-laid, tiles back. The jump is not gradual.
Across five quotes on one job, the lowest is usually the one that under-scoped it. The only ways out of an underbid are thinner material, shallower removal, or walking off. We'd rather show our arithmetic and lose on price.
Before you commit
Some of these cost you money twice. We would rather lose the job than do them, so here they are in advance.
The perimeter of a floor, internal corners, where floor meets wall, around sanitaryware — these move, and any rigid grout cracks there. They take flexible silicone, not grout of any kind. A cracked corner three months after a "full regrout" is almost always this.
Cement grout is porous by design — that is not a defect, it is what it is. It drinks soap, water and body oils, and the black you scrub off is growing inside it. Sealing slows it for a while. In a wet area it is a three-year consumable.
Paint over failed grout and you have painted over failed grout. It looks right for a few weeks, then peels — usually first where it is wettest. What is underneath keeps doing whatever it was doing.
Real epoxy is two or three parts mixed on site against a clock. Pre-mixed and ready to use — including Mapei Flexcolor CQ, often confused with Kerapoxy CQ — is not an epoxy: easier to apply, less chemical- and stain-resistant. It may be right for your job. It is not what you were quoted.
The quartz in most epoxy grout is too coarse for a fine joint, so it bridges and leaves voids you cannot see. Fine joints need a different product, not more effort. We measure the joint before choosing.
White epoxy yellows. It is the chemistry, not a defect, and it happens in rooms with no window at all. Off-white or light grey looks the same on day one and still looks right in year five.
Tap a tile — if it sounds hollow the problem is underneath it, and grout does not hold a tile down. If we find this we tell you and stop. It is a tiling job, not a grouting job, and doing it in the wrong order wastes both.
If nobody will tell you what went into your bathroom, nobody is standing behind it either. Ask any contractor — us included — for the product name and the receipt.
Chipped and broken tiles
Grout removal runs a blade along the edge of your tiles. Done properly the risk is small, but it is not zero — and some situations carry real risk however careful we are. Here is exactly how we handle it.
Before any tool comes out, we photograph the whole area including every chip, crack and scratch already there, and send them to you. Not to protect ourselves — so that neither of us is relying on memory afterwards.
This is the question almost nobody asks, and it is the one that matters most. If there is a box in the store room, a chipped tile is a small fix. If there isn't, and the tile is discontinued, it isn't. Tell us before we start.
Existing epoxy, because it bonds to the tile edge and the failure plane can run into the tile. Already-cracked or drummy tiles. Thin large-format tiles. Some natural stone. If we see any of these we tell you the risk before quoting firm, and for existing epoxy we insist on seeing it first.
Immediately, with a photo, on the day. We make good damage we caused — replacing from your spares where they exist, or making it good as well as it can be made where they don't. What we will not do is find it, say nothing, and hope.
We can't source a tile that is no longer made, and we can't make a replacement tile in a run of aged tiles look untouched — new tile is a different age to everything around it. Where that is the realistic outcome, you should know it before you agree to the work, not after.
Nothing here is an attempt to sign away responsibility for our own workmanship — Singapore law wouldn't allow that and we wouldn't want it. This is a disclosure of a real risk and a statement of what we do about it.
Colour and extras
Choosing a colour costs us nothing, so we don't charge for it. What does cost money is what's left in the tub — grout ships in 3 kg units and the manufacturer requires one batch per area, so every extra colour on a job strands material we can't reuse. We charge that and nothing more.
Pick from the standard colour range. Same price whichever you choose — the pigment costs us the same.
We hold samples against your tile, in your bathroom, in your light — not against a photo. The range is about 19 colours and epoxy cannot be tinted on site, so an invisible match is often not physically available. On neutrals we usually get very close. On anything strongly coloured we won't, and we'll say so and steer you to a deliberate contrast instead — which always looks chosen, where a near-miss always looks like a mistake.
Each colour needs its own tub, and the remainder can't go into the next room. On a three-room job that's about $48 of grout left in part-used tubs, plus a separate mix for each.
Outside the stocked range we buy a full tub for one room and never use the rest, and it has to be ordered in. If it can't be sourced we'll tell you before you commit.
Decorative additives are a real material cost and we'll price them per job. Ask if you want them — they suit feature walls far better than floors.
We note the batch on your job sheet. It's how colour stays consistent across an area, and it's your proof of what actually went in.
Packages
Fixed scopes at fixed prices for re-grouting existing tiles, with the extras bundled in. These are priced for 300×300 tile and smaller — the standard HDB bathroom and kitchen. On larger tiles there is less joint to do, so the calculator comes out cheaper and you should use it. Same if your job doesn't fit a scope: more area, full walls, more rooms.
Kitchen plus two bathrooms — floors and wet areas, the standard 4-room job.
Kitchen floor and backsplash — the grease-and-stain area.
One toilet — floor and the shower area, up to 50 sqft of surface.
How the packages relate to the tariff above. Priced strictly from the rate card, a 50 sqft bathroom floor on BTO-age grout is $530: the work comes to about $345, the $380 minimum job lifts it, and the $150 mobilisation goes on top. The $488 package is a fixed price set below that on purpose. You are not being quoted a different formula, you are being given a discount on the published one. Anything outside a package is priced from the tariff.
Newly laid tiles that have never been grouted are priced separately and cost roughly half — there is no removal stage. Malaysian work is quoted in Ringgit on the same tariff, plus what it costs to get a crew and materials across the border.
The work
Ardex WA, Sika SikaCeram, Mapei Kerapoxy, Laticrete SpectraLOCK — true two-part epoxy, named on your quote before you commit. The tubs are in your house and the receipt is yours to see. Anyone quoting "premium epoxy" without a product name is leaving themselves room.
Once mixed, epoxy is workable for about 45 minutes, and the haze has to come off the tile face inside that window or it sets permanently on your tiles. That's why we work in controlled sections, and why a rushed epoxy job is worse than no epoxy job.
Five years on every epoxy-grouted surface, whatever the job size (Ultracolor Plus areas carry 2 years, silicone 1 year) — covering cracking, shrinkage, discolouration and joint failure in the treated joints. Most of this trade writes one or two years, which expires just before bad workmanship starts to show. That gap is the whole reason to ask.
What happens
Use the calculator on the homepage, or send photos and tile sizes on WhatsApp. You get a fixed itemised figure the same day — not "from $X, subject to inspection".
Before anything starts we check the joints and confirm the price in writing. If the site is worse than described we tell you before we open a tub — never after.
Old grout out to depth, surfaces cleaned and dried, epoxy packed and tooled in sections, haze off inside the working window. Furniture sheeted, dust contained.
We hand over joint by joint. Anything you're not happy with is fixed that day. Warranty certificate issued with your name and the product batch on it.
Straight answers
Use the calculator on the homepage — it runs the same tariff we quote from, so it isn't an estimate that moves later. For reference, on 300×300 tile with old hardened grout: a bathroom floor alone is about $499; floor plus shower walls about $1,074; floor plus every wall is a two-to-three day job at around $2,300, because 300×300 walls hold roughly 155 metres of joint to rake out. A full 4-room flat of newly laid tiles needing first-time grouting is around $2,900.
Yes, and it's the cheapest time to do it — around 40% less than re-grouting, because there is no removal stage at all. If your tiler has laid tiles and left the joints open, going epoxy now means you never re-grout that flat. Send us the tile sizes room by room and we'll break the quote down per room.
Because you're paying for joints, not floor. A square metre of 600×600 contains 3.33 metres of joint. The same square metre in 300×300 contains 6.67 — double the removal, double the packing, double the tooling. Large format like 1200×600 is the cheapest to grout at 2.5 m per square metre.
Yes. We bring the colour chart and match against your tile in your lighting, not from a photo. Most people end up one shade darker than the original — that's the colour it will still be in ten years, rather than the colour cement was on day one.
One bathroom is a single day. A full flat is two to three. Walk on the new joints after 24 hours, showers and water after 4 days, full chemical cure in about 7 days. We work around you — one toilet at a time if you only have one.
Yes, and we'll say so. Movement joints, internal corners and tile-to-sanitaryware junctions need flexible silicone, not rigid epoxy — epoxy there will crack. Cracked or drummy tiles need fixing first; grout will not hold a loose tile down. And if your real problem is a failed waterproofing membrane, re-grouting is not the fix, and we'll tell you that instead of taking the job.
Usually one of four things: single-part "epoxy-look" acrylic instead of true two-part epoxy; skimming new grout over old instead of raking out to depth; walls or the shower area quietly excluded; or a site fee and minimum charge that appear later. The three questions above sort it out in one message — which product, how deep, is the number fixed. If their answers match ours, their price is genuinely better and you should take it.
Regularly in Johor and Iskandar — Iskandar Puteri, Skudai, Kulai, Pasir Gudang and around. Further afield we will come, but only by arrangement, because it stops being a day trip. Prices are the same tariff quoted in Ringgit, plus the cost of the crossing. Scheduling is less flexible because we batch Malaysian jobs into runs, so give us a few dates to choose from.
Where we work
Same published tariff everywhere in Singapore — no zone loading, no surcharge for the far end of the island. In Malaysia we work regularly in Johor and Iskandar, quoted in Ringgit on the same tariff plus the cost of the crossing, and batched into runs. Give us a few dates to choose from.
Know the price before you message anyone
The calculator runs this exact tariff — pick your rooms and tile sizes and get a fixed, itemised figure with no form to fill in first.